Archive for March, 2010

Kosher Today

Poor old Elijah. The 9th Century B.C. (of course) prophet of Israel could raise the dead, call down fire from the sky and ascend to heaven in a whirlwind, but he couldn’t get a decent glass of wine. His was kosher and, says Anat Levy Rushansky, CEO of Israel’s Golan Heights Winery, it was ‘awful.’ […]

Heavens to Betsy

In an uncharacteristic move, the wine world unbuttoned itself a bit recently. Said world is normally populated by a surfeit of folk in $100 watered-silk Italian neckties who do not speak so much as intone celestial sentiments like ‘Great wine is made in the vineyard’ moments before treating their juice to industrial yeasts, multiple fermentations […]

Corkage, Meet Forkage

Despite being Queen B (as in baker), despite having published a new book, Rose’s Heavenly Cakes, Rose Levy Beranbaum remains a sweet-natured soul, so the Forkage Charge came as something of a shock. It spoiled a meal when she and three other food folk, Nancy, David and Woody, recently went to The Breslin for lunch […]

Fleeced in Flight by Delta?

Or, Bandit at 12 O’Clock High!     Last November, flying Delta home from Italy, the P.A. announced a robbery in coach. U.S. carriers rob you whenever possible; still, Delta’s in-flight stick-up struck me as an innovation: when a stewardess announced “beverage service” and recited the bar menu, she said wine would cost $7 (which […]

Zin! Went the Strings of My Heart

Joel Peterson, founder-winemaker of Ravenswood since 1976, is as good for a quote as he is for a zin. I first met him at a tasting about a decade ago; a bunch of riffraff, layabouts and lowlifes (read: wine writers) had fallen to discussing Brettanomyces bruxellensis a.k.a. Brett. It had just begun making news as […]